Posted: 11/27/02

Mountain climbing provides new thrill

Jessica Foster
Staff Writer

Speaking of their duct taped foot flesh, bitter temperatures, lack of lavoratories, freeze dried food and the effects of altitude sickness, it is hard to understand the thrill of mountain climbing.

Especially where the wind is strong enough to whisk away belongingsóeven tents with skinny folks sleeping inside.

But itís that excitement, the lift of their voice and the laughter that comes from Doug Sill, Glenn Ciegler and Dave Homyak as they sit around and talk about their journey up Aconcagua where one begins to understand the pull to the mountain.

ìItís sort of like funóbut different,î jokes Ciegler, an orthopedic surgeon out of Stillwater.

On an airplane ride to the site, Sill penned a seven page letter to his children in which he attempted to explain the mystical power of mountaineering.

ìThere is that recurring beckoning to climb to the top,î he wrote. ìItís hard work physically but for me the reward far surpasses the effort. Part of it is the challengeóto always push oneself harderóand higherÖI donít want to become stagnant. I want to challenge myself, to have a goal perhaps just out of reach to strive for.î

Homyak said he climbs to ward off ìcubicle feverî and for ìfear of ordinary, fear of boredom.î

A giant leap

Located on the border of Argentina and Chile, the 23,000 foot climb takes three weeks of back breaking, hard thinking work. The statistics say two of three who attempt to reach the peak fail.

The stats proved true for this local trio. While Sill made it to the peak, Homyak had to turn back first, at 16,000 feet. Ciegler had to turn back at 21,500 feet when his legs gave out, unable to take another step.

ìIt was the hardest decision in the world to turn around,î Ciegler said.

Sill stressed mountain climbing is different every day. He said in another climb it might have been Ciegler or Homyak to reach the summit. Still, they were there.

ìEverybody on that team got me to the top,î Sill said.

While the summit gets the most glory, the men stress the magic is in the journey.

ìItís the whole process of getting there, pushing yourself,î Sill said.

And getting there safely.

In the mensí scrapbooks is a photo of the mountainside. The mountainside pasted with photos, crosses and memorials to those who died in their journey up Aconcagua.

ìA successful climb is to walk through your front door,î Sill said.

The three said the home and family always was on their mind. With each step, and each pull forward, they thought of home.

ìThere isnít a moment on the mountain when youíre not thinking about home at every step,î Homyak said.

Coming together

The trio came together when Homyak went into see Dr. Sill at the Forest Lake Clinic. Sill referred Homyak to Ciegler to tend to Homyak who had hurt his foot on Kilamanjaro.

The three bonded and together, decided to make this journey.

ìThere arenít a whole lot of people that are interested in doing this,î Ciegler said.

All agree the comraderie of such an expedition is unmatched.

ìThe only time you get that close to someoneóespecially for guysóis in a war situation,î Ciegler said.

Sill agreed.

ìYou know each other real well when youíre done,î he said.

Training

Training for Aconcagua was intense. The men climbed frozen waterfalls on the north shore, they exercised daily, they climbed Mount Rainer and Mount Baker. They practiced untying knots and zipping zippers without the luxury of light. They practiced using their climbing ropes and other equipment. It was imperative they know their clothes and equipment as if it was part of their body. Cardiovascular exercises helped build stamina and weight training built muscles.

ìIf you prepare and you train, you climb smart, itís just like any other sport or hard activity like that,î Sill said.

The training was all preparation to tackle the highest peak in the western hemisphere.

Affectionately called the slag heap for its slippery climbing surface, the trio would often make two steps forward only to slide two steps back.

They had to go up slowly. Going up and coming back down again to ward off altitude sickness. The climb, in order to be safe, had to be done slowly and with brains.

Sill, Ciegler and Homyak stress the climb is team work. To get even one man to the peak takes the work of the entire teamómoving in rhythm and reading each otherís minds.

With guides Matt and CeCe and two climbers from Texas, the mountaineers would camp out in dome tents. Packed in like sardines, there was no wiggle room, no space for privacy, no allowance for bad moods.

ìWhen you climb you have to have confidence in other people you climb with and they need to have confidence in you,î Sill said.

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